I'm from the States so when I get ready to fly I have to prepare myself physically, mentally, and go in confident of body because I could get a pat down. Belts, loose change, shoes, cardigans, jackets, hats-they all come off and away from body.
Not when you live in Korea though.
Best. Airport. Experience. Ever. I flew domestically from Gwangju to Seoul this past weekend, and went through the routine: 3 oz liquids in clear bag at the top of my bag so I easily show the security, wore flip flops to make shoe removal easier, no belt. It was all so very unnecessary. I kept my shoes on, didn't have to take any liquids out of my bag, walked through a metal detector and didn't have a full body scan. Oh no. I walked through. Easy peasy. Then when people would walk through and the detector would go off the would just get a little wave of the metal wand and they were deemed safe. I sat in the airport in complete amazement, thinking, "what the...?!" My New Zealander friend couldn't get over my shock. She had stocked full bottles of shampoo in her bag which I thought was just not done.
Needless to say on the return flight all of the liquidy stuff I bought over the weekend (vanilla extract, expensive shampoo, chocolate frosting) went deep in my bag because I knew I wouldn't have to retrieve it later. In fact, I bought the shampoo just because I knew I could take it on my carry-on luggage. I loved it. Another reason my small sabbatical in America is going to be difficult in adjustment.
I started an experiment on May 1st. It was pretty simple really, much easier than the chem lab that nearly killed me in uni. All I did was write down something good that happened each day. The purpose was so that I could remember all the goodness that I don't write down and thus forget, and to also see if my attitude changed at all in the course of a month of focusing on the positive.
It was a lot easier for me to be negative at home. I have a few theories on that, but those are theories and shall remain with me. However, one would think that being in a strange place away from family and friends and Chik-fil-a would turn me into a sour person, constantly comparing the US to Korea, always focusing on when Korea let me down, and how different (awful) everything was. That hasn't been the case. I'm pretty positive. Most of the time. More so than a lot of expats I've met over here. Which is surprising because life is already hard here, I mean they don't have Chik-fil-a for God's sake, but why make it harder on yourself by being negative. It drives me insane.
The results were good, amazing actually. Some days I struggled to find something worthy of making the list and others I struggled to write down just one (so I didn't). It dragged May out a bit, but I enjoyed my little experiment. Good to be reminded of all that I've done and experienced. So here you go, another list.
May:
1- Had a surprise day off. Yay Worker's Day!
2- Finished a difficult assignment.
3- Lotte Mart opened in Naju.
4- Bought a bicycle.
5- Went to a birthday party where there were probably 10 countries and nationalities represented. Love multiculturalism!
6- Was beautifully reminded of God's grace and love for me when I fall short.
7- Got organized in my classroom. Felt very teachery. Also, fixed my washing machine.
8- A student told me my Korean was good. 아 싸 !
9- Found a new song. Downloaded it. Listened to it on repeat.
10- Great morning class with lots of laughter, and had an amazing bike ride.
11- Indian meal with honest and hilarious conversation with honest and hilarious friends.
12- Explored a new part of Naju (it had one?) with Aimee.
13- Coffee with Brown Eyes.
14- Found out nephew's name!
15- Got a cake for Teacher's Day.
16- Discovered a cool new blog.
17- Sister got a job!
18- Reaffirmation in a friendship.
19-Spent the most wonderful day at the park where I was exceedingly thankful for lanterns, ice cream, and friends.
20-Sports day at church. Found out I suck at jump rope, but can turn it like no other.
21- Got some major cleaning done, and felt super accomplished afterwards. Seriously guys, it was gross.
22- Finalized plans for Buddha's birthday weekend (rare three day weekend).
23- Fantastic taxi ride with guy who spoke English. He took requests for kpop songs, and was super impressed when I named about twelve for him to choose from.
24- Talked on the phone with a friend for about an hour about absolutely nothing of importance. I hadn't done that in forever, and it made me feel all girly and collegey.
25- Stayed at the most amazing hotel in Busan. First time I had experienced a waterfall shower.
26- Received the best haircut. Ever. By a hot Korean man. Period. Done.
27- First day on the beach since last August. Stayed for six hours, and got a pretty good little tan. Also, met a guy from Georgia in a New Zealand bar. My accent was super thick that night, and it really made me miss southern men who say love, sweetie, honey.
28- Buddha's Birthday=day off!
29- Found the Seoul Subway song and it reminded me of my sister's visit here. Good times.
30- Started planning my summer trip to Thailand. Wish I had more money
31- Thailand was too expensive, sooooo I bought plane tickets to Malaysia instead. Ahhhhh...the white sand beach, the palm trees, the coconuts...
May, you rocked. Thanks for wrapping it up so nicely. On to June. May you treat me oh so kindly.
Because I'm so happy, you're going to get this "overly happy yeah I love everything" post. Enjoy.
Before I came to Korea, the Bible verses I needed to get me through the day were always something from Lamentations or Psalms. It was always something like this, "I remember my afflictions and my wandering, the bitterness and the gall. I well remember them, and my soul is downcast within me. Yet this I call to mind and therefore I have hope: Because of the Lord's great love we are not consumed, for his compassions never fail." That one's from Lamentations. It was the kind of stuff you needed when you'd lost a love one or if you just couldn't remember the last time you felt hopeful. But I needed them all the time. Great verses and all, but sad at the same time. I was constantly searching for joy, it was a fleeting emotion, and satisfaction in life seemed a Hollywood creation.
Then this wonderful, amazing, crazy, ridicoulous thing happened. I got uncomfortable. That's right. I gave up comfort, a sense of the known, and moved away. The Lord gave me joy, in abundance. It dawned on me this weekend, in a moment of pure contentment as I looked across the park to the Gwangju skyline, sitting beside friends, sunburnt and hungry, that these moments happen so often. There are times that suck. Absolutley. No doubt about that one. Just look up the tag "hating Korea", but those moments happen few and far between. My search for joy isn't a downtrodden attempt to find friends who make me happy and laugh. God gave me those, in abundance. I'm not struggling to maintain hope or strength. God gave me that too, in abundance.
This weekend, I went to a park, arrived sweaty and thirsty, just had a damn good time. I was with new people I'd never met, some that I'd only known a few months, but have an insanely close relationship with. It's the way it is here. Find a friend and latch on. We're forced to develop these close bonds quickly because we are all too aware of our time here. I love the fact that I was with people from all over the world this weekend, and we found community and joy through sharing a bucket of ice-cream and ten spoons, a volleyball, and a camera. And when we were wrapping up our afternoon and the sky was getting darker, the lanterns put up ahead of Buddha's birthday started to light up, I could feel how full my heart was. I wanted to roll around in all the goodness of it.
A good weekend consists of:
lots of sunshine
a good camera
good food
people who love to laugh
the beginnings of a tan (good-bye Korean paleness)
iced coffee
so much laughter you get a headache and your face hurts
The Bible has a lot to say about joy. I love discovering those verses and claiming those, all the time.
ROK vs USA Round 1: Lotte Mart/Emart/HomePlus vs Wal-Mart
Like any good American I used to have a thing for Wal-Mart; thing as in stuff is cheap and back when I should have been on food stamps, Wal-Mart was where I bought the eggs. Then I became a bit more conscious to their less than favorable morals and work ethics and tried to limit myself from going there. I mean I really didn't care to support a company where women could never be promoted and when a store came into town it shut down all the little mom and pop places that NC is so famous for. ANYWAY, most of Americans lovehatelikeloathecantlivewithout Wal-Mart so I use this as an example. But oh Wal-Mart, how you would lose in Korea. Not when there is Lotte Mart or E Mart or HomePlus. No no my little smiley face friend, you could not thrive and jive as you do in my beloved home. Folks, I bring you...Lotte Mart.
Lotte Mart has me salivating where as Wal-Mart makes me want to cringe. This beloved store is one of three major stores in Korea and it just happens to be my favorite.
Sure Wal-Mart you've got a McDonalds/Subway, a wee little bank, a nail salon, and an eye doctor all right there in the front of the store, but Lotte (hold onto your pants people) has a pet store, a spa (massages/Dr. Fish/nails/mud masks), a restaurant or three, lockers to store your things, mini versions of your favorite cosmetic stores, and to top it all off their customer service is the shiz. I mean really. There is no denying it.
Wal-Mart has those adorable elderly people there ready to welcome you so it's hard to say this because I, well, love old people...but Lotte Mart has men in suits bowing to you when you walk in. Lotte=win
There are at least two employees in each section, whether it be bedding, outdoor gear, school supplies, grocery, cleaning supplies, appliances, qtips, or shoes, at all times. They greet you then watch you the entire time you're in their area waiting to pounce if you get a quizzical look on your face.
One of the greatest fears in America is the WM parking lot around Christmas. Cars screeching down rows, mothers screaming, running after their children. It is HORRIFIC. Not so at Lotte. There is no parking lot. No no my dear ones. There's a multi level parking deck on top of the store. As you know Korea is a peninsula (did you know that?) so they build up instead of out here. Genius. Instead of miles and miles of parking lots, they just add parking to the top or bottom of the store.
Oh no! Did you have to drive to the top level of the parking deck? No worries, just hop on the escalator. Yep, ride that bad boy all the way to level 1.
Once you're in and you want to go to a different level then just ride a different set of escalators that are cart friendly and within the cash registers. FOR MY WHOLE FOODIES: like all stores here they charge you for the use of their bags. Therefore, bring your own and save 100W or so. You know how WM bags one item per bag. Not done here. You bag it yourself and as a former cash register girl, I have no complaints about this. Neither do the Koreans. Bag your own stuff people.
Yesterday I got into a taxi, told the driver where I wanted to go, gave him the paper with the Korean directions when he didn't understand me, and rode to the radio station. It was raining, it was a Tuesday, and I realized that I had developed a life in Korea. It was one of those moments that slaps you across the face; an unexpected realization that either makes you gasp, cry, or grin. I laughed. The taxi driver flicked his up in the rearview to see if he had picked up a crazy girl taken to laughing at nothing.
When I moved here I had expected to make friends, make plans with those friends, and have a general schedule. I don't think I was expecting to make a life, a little home for myself. As for most expats here in Korea, our stay is temporary. We make friends, make plans with those friends, but all the while in the back of our minds is the thought that this isn't our real life. Our real life is back home in the States, in Canada where our friends are, our families. We left a life that we'll go and pick up right where we left it. Korea is just Korea, a place and time that is short in the length of our lives. It's just a year or two and then we get back to real life. But when did that thought start? I had the "Korea is a break from reality" thought on the plane crossing over here. Hell, I had the same thought on Monday. Why is that we don't really think to create a life here? Because it isn't home? Because we are always foreigners and we could never blend in?
We live in this country, teach during the day, travel during the weekend, and always know where are suitcases are, waiting to be re-packed eight months from now.
But what if life happened? In the back of a taxi on some idle Tuesday, I laughed because life was happening. It wasn't a temporary life I was living anymore. I hadn't realized I was living with a temporary mindset until I was in the back of that taxi. Now, I know I'll be moving back someday. In eight months my bags will be packed and I'll have a ticket to the States in hand, but that doesn't mean I need to live everyday thinking that. I like the idea of becoming known in your community, doing something besides the expat tourist lifestyle, and I've been extremely blessed with the opportunities to make my stay here a bit more homey and less like a transient one. I'm doing things here that I would never have done in the States. Things that make me feel more like a resident and less of an alien registration card holder. I'm working on an article for the foreigner community magazine in Gwangju and last night I was interviewed for community hour at the English radio station. Another NC girl and I were asked to talk about local NC music.
No, Korea will never be home. Never ever. There are days when I call my friends and tell them I'm sick of how everybody is trying to run me over in the streets. But I was also sick of seeing myself in a life that was too transitional. True I've moved six times in two years. I want to be able to live here, in a strange place, and not think about when I'll be leaving. I want to forget where I put my suitcases and not think to myself every time I buy something, "how am I going to pack that when I go home?" It's a lesson I never learned back home and, ironically enough, I'm learning it here. In Korea. Don't live a life wondering where you'll be next, but be content with where you are placed. Thanks Korea for life lesson #83 you've taught me. Lesson #84 is going to be to look both ways before crossing the SIDEWALK.
Life certainly has caught up with me here. So, the reason I've been absent is as follows:
a TEFL course that is sucking out my soul
Seollal- Korea's New Year and largest holiday that left me with a few days off and lots of traveling
my aspirations in becoming a published author means writing an article for the Gwangju News and is taking priority over my blog these days
So please, love me as Korea opens up her arms to me a bit more and gives me opportunities to create a life here.
I've made a lot of good choices in my life: changing my major from Biology to English, good decision, to go solo to senior prom: good decision, to stop being a vegetarian: good decision, and to always carry an umbrella with me: good decision. I've also made a lot of bad choices/decisions: asking someone to junior prom: poor choice, going blonde: bad decision, aiming for a girl on the volleyball court and breaking her nose: bad choice (albeit slightly awesome too. She was mean.) However, one of the best decisions I've ever made in my life was the decision to come to Korea. Hands down, this decision wins.
During the past few weeks, a few fellow expats and I have talked about how much we love Korea and how different our lives are now and how we may never leave. Sure, there are things we hate/can't stand/never understand/loathe about Korea, but it doesn't over shadow the fact that our lives pretty much rock here. Allow me to explain...
1. Stress
Before moving to Korea I would get, what I like to call, stress headaches. During 2nd period, with my most ridiculous class, I would rub my temple, feeling the oncoming sharp pain of stress. My sister expressed her concern/annoyance with these headaches one day, "Jennifer, you always have headaches!"(There wasn't much concern.) I didn't want to be one of those whiners who always ache and groan. I started to worry that maybe I had a tumor, but I was too scared to go to the doctor.
Two months after coming to Korea I got a headache. I had failed to drink anything but coffee all day and when I reached for the ibuprofen I stopped and thought, "holy crap I can't remember the last time I had to take ibuprofen for a headache. When was the last one?" I couldn't remember. I don't have them anymore. My job and life in general are less stressful. I'm not surrounded by the politics of public education, financial problems, or dating lack of dating thoughts.
2. Money
Money has always been an issue. I'm not rich, nor did I grow up rich. I knew how to budget and how to be frugal, but at the end of the month I was always scrapping the bottom of the fridge for something to eat. I had student loans, car payments, bills, rent, and other things to pay for. There were those terrible moments when I had to call home and tell them I needed help. I am a prideful creature, what can I say.
Now, I don't have a car to pay off, my rent is free, my phone bill for three months was $60, I paid $8 for a haircut, and I survived my first two months on $1000. I'm embarrassed at how much money I have in the bank right now. Not that I really own it. I'm still paying off grad school, so a large chunk of money is sent home each month, but even so, I'm not worried about money. It's the first time in my life since moving out of my parent's house where I am financial stable. Even as a teacher, I had a summer job to make things a bit easier. Did you hear that America? As a PROFESSIONAL I still had to have a summer job as if I was some college student. Sad I tell you.
3. Health
Koreans are pretty healthy. It's no wonder with fast food restaurants not littering every corner. The entire country thrives on being physically active and eating good food. Every time I'm out with my co-workers or Korean friends and we have Korean food they don't hesitate to tell me how that particular item I'm eating is good for this or that. Now it's not scientifically proven and some I don't believe, but I do know it's not bad for me. It isn't covered in butter, oil, and reeking of calories. If it wasn't for bakeries and coffee my weight loss would be much more significant. Damn that sugar.
Also, if you become ill, whether it be a head cold or a hospital stay, it's going to be cheap. On a recent visit to Seoul my friend became so ill that we went straight to the ER. After 20 minutes and $11 we were out of the hospital and pharmacy and my friend had no pain. Fantastic
Quite often I compare the US to Korea either in this blog or in my own thoughts. Sometimes the US wins, sometimes Korea wins. It goes without saying that there are "hating Korea" moments (i.e. crossing the street), and the next entry might be on what is frustrating me at the moment. Maybe I'll get food poisoning from all that healthy food. Who knows. The point of this blog and many more entries to come isn't to pit the two countries together to find a winner. I enjoy showing the differences between them and the craziness that I encounter. I think the point here is maybe to show how I took a chance and dove into the uncertainty. I won this time. I made a good decision.
I hate the word tourist. It brings images of large loud people wearing ridiculously bright clothing; all while they are pointing, gawking, and taking pictures. You know them; they wear white shoes with cameras hanging around their necks, large sun hats settled onto their heads.
I grew up close to the coast in NC along side a highway and every summer the road would become congested with tourists making their way to the beach. They would drive too slow or too fast, and when we would head down to the beach ourselves we would always complain. Never mind the fact that we didn't actually live at the beach ourselves. These people were outsiders. They didn't understand our way of life or appreciate what was right before them. On the way to the beach, did they notice the rows and rows of tobacco or corn that were so beautiful in their symmetry? Did they see the antebellum house with it's once tall proud columns, now gloved in 100 years worth of grime? No they only saw the beach and all it's touristy attractions.
In my travels, whether they be abroad or stateside, I've always hated the label "tourist". No I didn't care to see that tourist hotspot. Instead show me where the locals eat, what places to the locals avoid and gather around instead. Perhaps it's my insecurity of never fitting in. But these past three and a half months (is that all it's been?!) have shown me that fitting in isn't fueling this distaste of being labeled a tourist. (It's impossible to fit in!) I simply want to experience the life, the culture as the locals do. I want to taste their street food instead of going to a Hard Rock Cafe. I want to learn their phrases and join in on their craic (look it up). The coffee shop that nobody knows about-I want to go there. The obscure little hole in the wall shop-show me the way. No, not a tourist...a traveler.
The difference between a tourist and a traveler is simple. The tourist comes to experience the culture, both good and bad, and the tourist comes only to see what's in their Lonely Planet guide book. Now, I'm not saying it's wrong to go see a few of those tourist spots. Drop me in England and I'll head straight for all the literary landmarks that I've carefully planned out and have highlighted on a map. (I am a book nerd after all.) The point is, if you really want to travel to a different country then shouldn't you also want to get to know it's people, it's food, language, fashion, music, humor? You do a great disservice to the country you're in when you all you do is tour the hotspots, eat at "normal" restaurants, and wonder "why the hell doesn't anybody speak English?!" It's like a foreigner coming to America and only experiencing New Jersey. The horror.
Oh. Good. God.
Now a few of you may be thinking, ever so sarcastically, "uh...Jennifer...how do you blend in in South Korea?" Fantastic question. I don't. But I try my hardest to get to know the country that I live in, this fascinating, enchantingly wonderful country. I listen to Kpop, eat kimchi and like it, make friends with Koreans, learn Korean, watch Korean TV, and dress in Korean fashion. I love it. Getting to know the people here is one of the most enjoyable experiences of my life.
Another question you might be asking is, "Jennifer, if you're doing all this, aren't you just forcing yourself into something you don't really belong to?" Another great question, question asker! The answer: not at all. Experiencing new and strange things is something I love. LOVE. Listening to kpop doesn't mean I'm forcing myself to be anything other than myself. I'm not going to go through life listening to only one kind of music or eating one type of food. We all know that change is one of the only certainties in life and, just like everything else, people change and enjoy new things. I'm still Jennifer, just a bit more of an Asian version than when you last saw her. I am a traveler. My delight is to absorb other cultures and take what I enjoy from each and go into the world with a more global way of thinking and seeing than I did before. It's what I do.
So my plea to all who travel, especially to live in another country, get out of your little comfortable foreign box and experience life. Don't go in search of the foreign community and resolve that once you've found a few friends you're done. Get. Out. Of. There.
Live.
P.S. Some of you little troublemakers might be asking, "isn't it spelled traveller?" Well maybe if you're British. But, I'm not. Traveler it is.
Korea is the land of festivals. They have a festival for everything, but I'm a big lover of festivals so I say right on. For example, in Gwangju they had the famous Kimchi festival two weeks ago, and this weekend is the Naju pear festival. We here in Naju love our pears...
I'm not really sure how normal companies work here in Korea, but at LG Chem in Naju, we have a Family Day Festival. To be perfectly honest, I'm not sure if it's some wanderlust still left in my eyes, or everything is still new and I'm on that "I live in KOREA" high, but the LGFD Festival made me fall in love with Korea oh so much more.
The day started out with it being extremely obvious that I was the only waygook there. Painfully obvious. More on this later. Tents were set up, endless dishes of strange food put out, soju and beer runnith over, and a painfully loud man with a microphone. Soccer games were played, races were run, and then came the group games. 250+ LG employees and family members were grouped into teams and the relay/unity races began. I was completely content with sitting under a tent nursing a beer, but no. Remember how I said Koreans are so kind? They want to make you feel welcome...accepted...and to embarrass the hell out of you. I joined the six legged relay race where we put a foot in some sort of rubber contraption and set about to run down the field and back. It was when we were doing our "Fighting"* cheer that the man with the mic found me. I saw it in his eyes, the recognition of a stranger. Oh for the love of god man just turn around and please oh please leave me... I was forced to tell him my name, thus "Jennipa" was famous for the rest of the day.
*Fighting is a chant or source of encouragement for Koreans. They raise a fist to the level of their eye and say, "fighting" with all their might. I joined along and soon was saying "fighting" right along with them the rest of the day. Reason #79 why I love Korea. FIGHTING!
After some relaying it was time to eat. About five different women came up asking me (gesturing with their hands) to join them when finally one of them just grabbed my hand, led me to her table, opened my chopsticks, and kept putting food in front of me. Again, I disobeyed my mother and ate stuff that I didn't recognize. (I would later find out that it was pig feet and squid with veggies). I did recognize chicken and stocked up on that. I have no idea how Koreans stay so thin because they could all out eat me. But the food they eat is super good for you supposedly. At least that's what every Korean has told me and they don't have obesity problems here like in America, so I'm going to listen to them.
I might have been a foreigner, but everyone welcomed me to their table, called my name from across the tent (thanks to the man with the mic). It was as if I really was a part of the "family" in LG Family Day. Love. This. Country.
Then each team in the company had to perform in front of the crowd. I am on the General Affairs team and was asked to join. Hells yeah! What do I have to do? I'm sorry, did you say dance to a song in front of the ENTIRE company? Hmm...how do you say "hell no, I respectfully decline" in Korean?
Reason #80 why I love Korea: dressing up and acting a fool is totally ok. Here are some pictures from other groups so you can get my full meaning.
A family act.
Group of guys whose main objective was to hide their crotch. I think.
Horse, chicken, and black man masks.
After all the dancing and comedy acts, my team was announced winners and I'm not sure if it was because I was on the team or we were actually that good. We did rock though. Fo reals. White girl can dance.
Everyone went home slightly tipsy, with full bellies and parting gifts. Check out my winnings below.
Travel sized toiletries, ramen, soap, and toothpaste.
LG made toothpaste that is.
Also, if you followed the link from my Facebook that said something about pictures of me, then do you really know me at all? If you thought I would put up pictures of me dancing in an outfit to a choreographed dance then you are sadly mistaken. Thanks for looking! But I feel kind of bad so here is the dance we did. It's a KPop song by Orange Caramel and the dance you see...I know every step because I rocked it.
