Thursday, April 3, 2014

The Hidden Truth About New Zealand

"Well. This is disappointing."

Something I'd never thought I'd say during my trip to New Zealand and I said it on the first day. AM (my travel partner) and I were walking through the streets of Auckland after checking into our hostel. It was loud and touristy, we could hear Korean being spoken on the streets and read it on the store fronts, our hostel was above a bar and smelled like wet commune feet. Wifi wasn't free and bottles of water were $4. AM and I were a little depressed. Where were the green hills of the Shire, the snow-capped mountains? Not in Auckland.
So we left Auckland, and I never again said "disappointing" in New Zealand.

My trip lasted almost the entire month of February and to try and write a post about it would
1. reveal that I am an incompetent writer and
2. it would take hours for you to read the babbling and long winded sentences that I would write trying to convey what an amazing place it is and the journey I undertook while there.
Also, you guys know how much I love lists.

BEST THINGS ABOUT NEW ZEALAND
1. Blue skies
Living in Korea, which is constantly under a haze of pollution or yellow dust, means seeing a true true blue sky is rare, and this Carolina girl misses her Carolina blue sky.
2. Fresh air
God, everywhere I went I breathed in so deep because even the freaking air was delicious. New Zealand is super SUPER environmental and Kiwis (New Zealanders) are very conscious of their impact on the land. The air was remarkably clean. My lungs nearly burst with happiness.
3. The people
Kiwis are beautiful, inside and out. Need a ride? Stick out your thumb. They will gladly pick up hitchhikers (I did.) They are kind and helpful. There weren't many times I grew frustrated at a Kiwi. Nearly everybody helped us out and were very kind to us tourists.
4. Scenery
Peter Jackson needed zero filters or touch ups when he shot the LOTR and The Hobbit. New Zealand is gorgeous. Enough said.
5. Hobbiton
I got my geekery on, and drank a pint at the Green Dragon. Every fan needs a trip to this extremely detailed and intact filming location. Plus, you get to hear secrets from behind the scenes.
6. Kinloch
Out of the way from Queenstown, this little hamlet is nice, secluded and perfect.
7. Paradise
We crossed the River Jordan (literally) and arrived in this township that mainly consisted of unpaved roads, horse farms, and mountain ranges. My retirement plan is to move to Paradise. It's called Paradise for crying out loud.
8. Lake Wanaka
This mammoth of a lake and little town it resides next to our perfection. I could have sipped a glass of New Zealand wine on it's shores, watching the sun go down, all evening. People are lovely and welcoming.
9. The Escape
We rented a 2001 silver Ford Escape. It was like one of the family when we parted ways. This gem of a vehicle cared for me as I learned to drive on the opposite side of the road and car. It took care of us like no local could. Half of our trip was spent within the doors of this grand beauty. It was our hotel room, changing room, kitchen, but I can say no more. What happens in the Escape, stays in the Escape.
10. Becky
Seeing one of the most wonderful people God has put in my path, made this trip all the better. She exudes the true Kiwi Way, "love others, love yourself, and for God's sake, relax! No worries, darl." She opened her home to us and loved us by showing us her amazing city. *See #13.
11. Flat White
My favorite coffee drink. Think latte without foam. I miss proper coffee.
12. Funky Restaurants 
This was mainly in Wellington, but cool restaurants abounded boasting their own strange and tasty menus. Salted Caramel milkshakes at one place, Tandoori Greek Chicken Salad at another, outdoor seating and fireplaces here. Diversity!
13. Wellington
Windy, clean, fresh, hipster, ocean-view Wellington, you made me smile all over. Never change. Used book shops, cheap clothing, delicious food, free museums, water front dining, and cafes conveniently close to surfing areas. Amazing I tell you.
14. Ginger Beer
Ginger ale has nothing on this. Never again will I be satisfied with Canada Dry. The tang. The bite. The goodness. It's everywhere and made by several companies in both Australia and New Zealand, so there are many varieties. It was my go to drink.
15. Pak n' Save
Kiwi grocery store. I think this is on the list because I miss grocery stores stocked with a variety of everything: fruits, nuts, veggies. Sigh. Korea is killing me.
16. Whittaker's Chocolate
Hands down best chocolate in the world, and they don't mess around with these kid sized bars. It's massive. It's delicious.
17. Air New Zealand
An airline that has this Lord of the Rings themed safety video makes it the best airline ever. Super polite staff as well. We got lollies as we prepared for landing. Yay!
18. Simplicity
Kiwis are chill people. They like simplicity. They love being helpful, laughing, anything that brings joy to the group, and relaxing. New Zealand was a chill country, and after living in Korea where everything moves so quickly and nobody really smiles at strangers, this country rocked my world. Easy going. Simple. New Zealand is the dream.
19. Rugby
I mean come on. I really like rugby. Unfortunately, for me, I'm a South African Springboks fan and the New Zealand All Blacks are their biggest rival. But Lord help me if I didn't enjoy watching the All Blacks play. They are beautiful, strong, ripped…er excuse me. They are handsome gentlemen to watch interacting together on the field of sport. Rugby is the national sport that nearly everybody watches and they all support their national team. It was fantastic to see people so unified and supporting the same thing. People had pick up games of rugby like we do basketball.
20. United New Zealand**
Like most of the modern world, New Zealand was settled by white colonists. There were struggles with the mixing of the indigenous tribe, the Maori, and the settlers, but New Zealand today has incorporated so much of the Maori language and culture. It was so beautiful to see! Maori is a language that is taught in schools. It is present in the names of towns, cities, street names, even the national rugby team does a Maori warrior dance before each match called the haka. See link under "Rugby". And praise God for the Maori. Without them there would be no haka. So many countries struggle to balance cultures, and New Zealand is not perfect about it, but they do really really well.

NOT THE BEST THINGS 
because even Paradise has a few flaws
1. Sandflies
I still carry the scars from these little bastards. They look like wee little gnats. But they're not. Oh no. These bite and sting. They are EVERYWHERE. They sent us running from beaches. We doused ourselves in bug spray. We drove with windows down in the rain to get them out of the car. These…these…minions of hell are not deterred by rain or wind. They rise out of Mordor and spread terror across the land.
2. Expensive
Good heavens everything was expensive. A bottle of water was $3. Good grief. Thank goodness you can drink out of the tap in this country.
3. Rain
Rain on any vacation sucks, but New Zealand is an island. It rained. Many times. The worst was when it rained camping before we got the Escape, and we were truly screwed then. Our wee tent wasn't ready for the lashing it got. sigh.
4. Everything closes at 4pm
Outside of the big cities, most restaurants and cafes closed around 4-6pm. Most inconvenient. Why New Zealand? Why? Korea's coffee shops open at 10am when most people don't need coffee anymore and close at 11pm, while in NZ cafes opened early in the morning and closed super early. I was all mixed up.
5. Summer doesn't always feel like summer
New Zealand is close to Antarctica. Let me emphasize that. ANTARCTICA. It was cold sometimes. It was terrible at night when you're all bundled up and then you have a sandfly colony attack. Wellington was particularly windy and cold.

But honestly there isn't much to complain about.
At all.

Cathedral Cove

Hobbiton


Wellington

Becky

South Island

Lake Wanaka

Lake Wanaka

**I would like to add that I was simply a tourist in New Zealand. I hate being a tourist. It leaves no time or space to get to know the culture or the people. As a tourist I get to taste the food, snap some pictures,  and leave. Therefore, it needs to be said, I do not know the intricacies of the social construct of New Zealand. I do not know what the blend of the Maori and European cultures looks like beyond surface level. So please, take note that what I list here are simply my opinions from glances of a twenty-four day trip to this beautiful country. I claim no expertise or true knowledge of any country, outside of my own, that I have traveled to.
With that being said, I urge anyone who has wanderlust, longs to travel, or simply goes abroad for a trip, please, do your research. Look at the country's history, it's social etiquette, it's phrases, local dishes, involvement in past wars, etc. Get an introduction of the country, and then, even if you're there for a brief time, you exist not only as a tourist, but someone who experiences. You become a traveler. BE a traveler. Don't just take pretty pictures. Stop in shops and talk to people. While you order your flat white, chat with the barista. (I did, and found out that her sister moved to the States and works down the street from my Dad.) Pick up the hitchhikers and ask questions. That is true experience. That is true travel.